pushing the limits beyond 2:1

[chris bangs]

Anyone doing microphotography?

here is a 8:1 image of dusky anemone eggs and two more of my old film ( Nikon F801) rig used to shoot this stuff. I had a custom adaptor made that allows me to use this port on my digital rig.

It took me 14 dives to get it right with film. with digital one dive!

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123643481_DSCF7514_1.jpg

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123720087_macro-bazooka.jpg

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123720087_Macro-bazooka2.jpg

[Clay Coleman]

Great shot and a very cool "toy", Chris. -Clay

[chris bangs]

Clay! it's a "tool":D

[Clay Coleman]

You're right, of course, Chris. I always get my tools and toys mixed up! -Clay

[Jonathan Bird]

OK, so the port is a monster....but tell us how you got 8:1. Macro lens with extension tubes?

Jonathan

[chris bangs]

OK, so the port is a monster....but tell us how you got 8:1. Macro lens with extension tubes?

Jonathan

extension tubes would produce the best image but they are not praticle for micro photography. two reasons, first in order to double the magnification the extension tube must be the same length as the lens focal length. 60 mm lens needs a 60 mm tube. at 8:1 the port would look like a bazooka. the second drawback to tubes is that they reduce the working distance, this makes lighting difficult to impossible.

the answer, High quality teleconverters ( individually or stacked ) , and high quality multi element diopters. I try to avoid using diopters since the reduce the working distance like a tude.

I use the 105mm for anything past 2:1. It allows use of a diopter without making it impossible to light the subject.

As you know teleconverters and diopters tend to soften the outer edges on macro. this is not an issue with a DX sensor since it crops out that area so more of the lenses sweet spot fills the frame.

[Jonathan Bird]

So for 8:1, what pieces parts do you stack up? That's really cool stuff!

Jonathan

[chris bangs]

So for 8:1, what pieces parts do you stack up? That's really cool stuff!

Jonathan

the 8:1 (ish) setup is quite simple, Stack a 2X and a 3X. the port adds the rest of the magnification.

The trick is how to shoot this.

on the F801, the aperture could not be set via a comand dial. the converters disabled my ability to adjust the aperture. Auto focus? HA!

focus is achieved by moving the rig.

the MOST difficult part is finding and keeping the subject in the frame. the eggs were easy, but gobies and shrinp were a pain.

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123464785_1xmastreeblue.jpg

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123464785_bpillowshrimp02.jpg

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/_7794_8.jpg

[chris bangs]

this is a bit higher mag

http://dive.scubadiving.com/members/memberimages/51925_1123643481_DAeggs-8X.jpg

[Jonathan Bird]

Wow, man! Those are cool! What a pain that must be to shoot!

Jonathan

[chris bangs]

Wow, man! Those are cool! What a pain that must be to shoot!

Jonathan

just a bit. but I got to where I could nail a few honeys on each roll, well worth it. once I diled in the settings I spent a month shooting all stages of development. I have only tried it with digital once because I have so many of these images already.

[Warren_L]

Chris, if I wanted to go 2:1 which TC would you suggest would be optimal? Either on my 60mm or 105mm, my guess from what you are saying would be best on the 105mm?

Also, what port/extension ring setup would I need. Like you, I have an aquatica housing for my D200. I currently have only the flat port for the 60mm, but am looking to fit the 105mm with a port. May as well get the proper extensions for 2:1 while I am at it.

Warren

[chris bangs]

The 2X will exceed 2:1.The 1.4x may do the trick with the Flat port/DX sensor but I have not done the math.

You Housing maker should have a dedicated 105 extension. On my aquatica I originally used a extension made for the 200 mm macro with the 105/2x combination. Now that I have many different extensions I will stact these so that the lens is almost touching the inner port face when it is fully extended. This will provide the maximum amount of working distance.

The 60 mm with a 105 extension will work with the 1.4x and even the 2X but the lens may not be able to be fully extended.

I seldom use the 60 for the extreame stuff due to the very limited working distance.

[Warren_L]

Thanks Chris, I will have to play around with the port extensions and see what works then.

[Carsten Wolff]

Very nice. Big strobe&light set-up, but obviously not necessary to go the ring-flash route (although there's a housing manufacturer who offers it).
D.O.F. must be a drama!
Another lens that comes to mind for these magnifications is the now oldish, rare, but brilliant Olympus 20mm/f2 Auto-Macro lens which one could also adapt to most DSlrs. It should get you to x14, or more magnification on DX.

[bvanant]

If you are shooting the 100 or 105 then I would strongly recommend the 1.4 tele over the 2.0. In my hands at least, much better quality and far easier to focus with the 1.4 than the 2.0. If I need to go higher, I will add a diopter (Canon 500D or the Marumi) to the lens with the tele.

Cheers
Bill